Vicksburg and Natchez MS
We got to Vicksburg late in the evening, where we were staying at an old mansion converted into a B&B. Upon seeing the amount of stuff we had, the owner very kindly upgraded us to the master ‘bedroom’, which was really a set of two beautiful old rooms with high ceilings and original 19th century detailing. The owner, Macy, in another display of kindness, gave us a list of places to go and things to see. Our first stop became clear – an old gas station that had been converted into a restaurant called ‘Klondyke’, which served $10 steaks. Needless to say, I was sold. Now, I know that some people reading this may be turned off by the idea of a 10 dollar steak, but I can assure you all that I have no regrets…it was great! Being karaoke night, we left just as some participants launched into their second songs, and drove down to one of the biggest sights in this little town; a huge boat that was home to the Ameristar Casino.Yes, it is somewhat sad that a town as modest as Vicksburg has such a big and successful casino but, for me, its one saving grace was the FREE gig we saw that night; the incredible Eddie Cotton. In what was perhaps the best free gig I’ve seen, Eddie Cotton channelled both BB King and Albert King in a fantastic display of electric Blues. Needless to say, it was one of my favourite gigs so far…in spite of the huge TVs and slot machines that decorated the room whilst he played (televised arm-wrestling championships for example – who watches that?! They did pull hilarious faces though). The next day we did a tour of the Vicksburg National Military Park, where we explored the vast fields that formed the basis for a key battle of the Civil War. When carrying out a long road trip, you really value any chance you have to get out of the car and walk around. However, these battle grounds were so large, the tour was set up as a ‘drive-through’, where you got out at each stop to view the numerous monuments that had been built to commemorate the soldiers.
Fortunately, the drive to Natchez wasn’t long. On the way, we stopped off in Heaven. Yes, you read that right (at least it was my version of heaven!). On the historic Highway 61, in a little place called Lorman, MS, you will find an old farm-styled building called ‘The Old Country Store’ (we’d been told about it by the B&B owner), and that is where we ate the world’s best fried chicken. Firstly, as we walked in, Sam Cooke was playing throughout the restaurant, and that is a sure-fire way to win my approval. Secondly, it was a family-run business with friendly staff, which included two sweet young kids who helped to clean up, and the chef, who came out and sang a song detailing his family’s history in the chicken-cooking business. To round it all off, we each got a signed diploma for ‘chicken-eating’. Most valuable diploma I’ve ever had.
We arrived in Natchez in the early evening, and after dropping off our bags at yet another Airbnb, we headed out to ‘The Saloon’ at our host’s recommendation. Whilst its location ‘under the hill’ and just by the Mississippi river was suitably picturesque, the band was not as captivating as Eddie Cotton’s the night before, as they loudly played a set full of covers. The next day we briefly stopped off at the Natchez visitor centre before making a final stop at the Melrose Plantation. Whilst not as vast or extravagant as the one we’d seen in Charleston, the Melrose plantation boasted an elegant mansion and large fields, as well as an insightful exhibit covering the lives of the slaves who’d lived and worked there. We then got back in the car and made our way to New Orleans for Mardi Gras.
